Let’s just accept I only crochet baskets now

Nine more baskets have come off my hook since the last batch I posted about; with the original basket post we’re at 19… and during the writing of this post and its sequel (it was too much for one) I’ve completed another, started one more, and wound three or four balls of yarn for yet more.

What began as an unaccountable impulse has turned into an exploration of edgings, shaping, colors, and surface design that I’m excited to continue. Eventually I hope to make a post or two extracting the patterns for the best of the edgings, for easier reference – but I would want to feel like I am closer to the end of this period of my crochet life before then.

Tapered Spring Basket

spring basket from side

So many strands! This was my first – and so far only – five-strand basket. The body of it is straightforward; just single crochet with more decreases on the outside edge than I would have made had I know how they would turn out. Most of the yarns change from beginning to end, though, and there’s a strand of variegated yarn; the combination gives it some extra visual interest.

To be honest I should just give in and call this the Easter basket. The photos are dim; in real life this is bright and candy-colored.

spring basket, top edge detail

For the top edge I made a round of single crochet in the back loop only, and then a round of alternating single crochet in the previous single crochet, and double crochet in the unused front loop below. It’s simple but finished-looking, and the unused loops between the double crochets set it off from the rest of the basket nicely.

Warty Citrus Sunflower Bowl

sunflower basket from top

O so bright! I haven’t been able to make the rest of this orange yarn work with any other combinations yet, but this one came out great.

On the sides of the basket in two rounds I made some single crochets in the back loop only and then in the next round decreased a single crochet in that stitch with a double crochet in the unused front loop. Those are the warts. They are… subtle. Might have been more worth the effort in a less busy color scheme.

sunflower basket from the side

The top edge is a round of what I named “compressed picot”: slip stitch in front loop only; chain 2; slip stitch in back bump of first chain; slip stitch in unused back loop of original stitch. Continue, slip stitching into the front loop of the next stitch. This was the point at which it got the “sunflower” part of its name.

Black and White Heptagon Bowl

heptagonal basket from the top

When your natural “flat circle” increase rate is seven stitches, it’s easy to make something heptagonal. Stack the increases in every round! I thought a geometric shape would go well with my black and white yarn color scheme.

Once the base was as big as I wanted, I stopped increasing but made half double crochet in each “corner” to continue distinguishing them. For the final round I used single crochet for the most part, but in each corner I made (hdc, dc, hdc) where the second half double crochet is linked to the first behind the double crochet.

heptagonal basket from the side

“Linked” means instead of yarning over before pulling up a loop, I pulled a loop up through the middle of the previous hdc (i.e. its starting yarn-over). There’s a video and written instructions for linked double crochet on Moogly; half double works the same way but seeing which loop of the previous stitch to insert your hook into might be trickier.

I had to go back and read my stitches to remember how I made this and several other of the baskets… I should really record them more promptly.

Unicorn-Wool Baskets

sherbet basket from the side

I allowed myself to buy yarn for no reason (well, we know the reason: baskets) and one of the skeins I came home with was variegated and sherbet-colored. The more I looked at it the more I loved it as it was, so I went back for two more skeins and wound them all together. I just want to eat it.

 

sherbet basket, from top with contents sherbet basket, from top, empty The basket is simply single crochet – why gild the lily? – and the top edge is crab stitch in every previous round’s stitch. When I’d gotten to the point that adding more rows would make the basket disproportionately tall, I still had plenty of yarn left, so I made a mini tray to go along with it.

sherbet mini-basket, from the side

sherbet mini-basket, from the top

The mini tray is just the same: plain old single crochet, and crab stitch at the top.

 

sherbet basket in progress The unicorn-wool basket was also the subject of probably the best in-progress photo I’ve ever taken of anything.

I’m really pleased with this, as simple as it is. I have the ending yarn strands – unicorn haircut sweepings – on a bookshelf in my sewing room, because even they are aesthetically appealing to me.


More in a week!

Bowls and Baskets, Revisited

Since my previous post on crochet baskets, I’ve made a bunch more.

Another Rainbow Basket

nested rainbow baskets stacked rainbow baskets

First up! I made a smaller version of the rainbow basket. It’s the same as the larger one except for size – simply single crochet in a spiral with a sort of rolled edge. I love how its color pattern is completely different from the larger one – striped instead of pooled into a sort of sand art look.

Bobble Stitch Tray

coiled bowl and bobble basket bobble basket close up

Next up, two baskets that lived in my crochet bag for a long time. The one shown twice above is more of a tray since its edges were both time-consuming and yarn-eating. I started with three worsted-weight yarns held together and made a simple single crochet bottom in joined rounds. When that was as large as I wanted, I made a round of 4-dc bobble stitch in every other stitch; I also chained 1 in between each pair of bobbles. In retrospect I may have been better off skipping the chains, because I needed to then go around with slip stitch (one per bobble and one in between each pair of bobbles) to keep it from splaying outward. I did one more bobble round with a slip stitch round afterward, making each bobble between two bobbles of the previous round and enclosing the slip stitch in between. Finally I did a round of crab stitch, making one stitch between each pair of bobbles of the last round, also enclosing the final slip stitch round. This is a very sturdy basket/tray.

Weird Coiled Dish

coiled bowl interior coiled bowl from bottom

The second piece ended up more of a dish than a bowl or basket or tray. I made a long strip of single crochet, four or five stitches across (I’ve already forgotten). I then coiled it into a bowl by folding it over to make turns and single-crocheting from the back to join each new round to the previous. This dish would need stiffening to be used as such; it was very floppy and did not want to hold its shape. It was interesting as an experiment and not terribly time-consuming, though.

Two More Catchalls

trefoil and figure-eight baskets trefoil basket trays

I made another “trefoil catchall” in a color scheme I described as “pine and olive oil” (trefoil catchall pattern). I finished the tray with crab stitch in every stitch, which gave it a sort of wrapped or bound-edge appearance.

The other new item shown above is a double tray, made figure-8 style. You can see that in the way the lip of one dish curves outward and the other inward. I made two disks separately for the bases, and after completing the first round of the side of one dish, I immediately went around the second dish. At the end of the full double round I slip-stitched into the starting stitch. In the next round I ignored the slip stitch, single-crocheting into each sc of the previous round, and so forth. The slip stitches in the middle didn’t seem to add any height to that spot, which was perfect.

Spike Stitch Basket

spike-stitch basket exterior spike-stitch basket interior

Finally, I made a basket using spike stitch. I was interested in a scarf I found on Ravelry where you single crochet with light yarn around super bulky yarn – kind of a crochet couching technique – but I did not have yarn on hand with weights different enough to get the effect. Instead I alternated rounds of single crochet with worsted-weight yarn and rounds of alternating sc and spike stitch with sport weight yarn: worsted, sport color A, worsted, sport color B. At first I wished I’d had a darker and/or more saturated purple to contrast with the gold and dark-but-undersaturated green, but what originally struck me as a washed-out color scheme now makes me think of excavated antiquities.

The base is joined rounds of single crochet with all three yarns held together; I made it with a slightly larger hook than the sides. The first two rounds of spike stitch are made into the last base round, and after that each spike stitch is made into the previous round of the same color. The two colors of spike stitches are offset, so one color yarn begins rounds with sc and the other with spike. I finished with a round of the worsted and then (guess what!) crab stitch, in every other stitch, with all three colors held together.

If I make another one of these I need a better way to carry the yarns up to later rows at the joining spot. In this one I made the joining slip stitch with all three yarns and that was too chunky – there’s a sort of wobble down the outside edge along the join because it’s taller than the rest of the side.

spike-stitch basket exterior

You may or may not recall I was making some of the crochet baskets, plus the coiled fabric bowls, for a craft sale. Our overall sales were significantly down from previous years, but the larger sewn bowls did sell. The smaller bowls and the crochet items (all of which were on the smaller side as well) did not. Perhaps larger crochet baskets would sell, but I’m not sure I have the dedication to make them for sale…

Headband!

I was looking for a headband to keep my hair out of my face when I do yoga – something not too narrow, but not super-wide; something that would stay in place but have some give; something that looked nice and could be made with cotton yarn.

None of the options I found online were what I was looking for, so I designed my own. It’s made in three rows and then the ends are sewn together. I did it with some boring Lily Sugar ‘n’ Cream (I think the color is called “natural”) held together with variegated embroidery floss for a little color pop.

chain link headband

Here’s the pattern for my headband; modifications and additional information follow.

Chain Link Headband!

Worsted weight cotton yarn, I/9 (5.5mm) hook.

Chain 67.
1. Starting in the second chain from the hook, alternate 2 sc decreases and 2 sc increases across.
2. Chain 2 (turning chain + 1). Skip first stitch and then alternate 2 sc and 4 chains over 4 skipped stitches – your sc are made into the middle 2 sc of each pair of increases from row 1. You will end with a chain 4 that includes the turning chain for the next row and is over only 3 skipped stitches.
3. Alternate 2 sc increases and 2 sc decreases across, starting in the second chain from the hook. Make your stitches into the chains as opposed to around the chains so they shape the way they are intended to.
Your finished flat piece should have a closed ring on the end with the starting slip knot, and two “fingers” on the opposite end. Sew those fingers to the starting end to close that “chain link” – it will be a bit wider than the ones mid-row but not very noticeable. Finish off all yarn/floss ends.

Or abbreviated:
Ch 67.
1. *Dec 2, inc 2* across (66).
2. Ch 2 (includes turning ch). Sk first st; *sc 2, sk 4 sts and ch 4* across. Will end with only 3 sk sts but still 4 chs (includes turning ch for next row) (22 sc, 44 ch + 2 turning ch).
3. *Inc 2, dec 2* across, stitching into ch instead of around ch (66).
Sew ends together and FO.

Fitting!

Headbands are very personal and crochet gauge is also very personal, so this is unlikely to work for you as written. Or perhaps you want to make it with a different weight of yarn. How should you adjust?

To determine your gauge:
Chain 13. Starting in second chain from hook, *sc dec, sc dec, sc inc, sc inc* twice.
It should make a gentle S shape. With your ruler against the two bumps of the S (so you are measuring straight along the overall direction of the work), measure from the first increase stitch to the last decrease stitch. If you follow the pattern as written, multiply that by 11 to get your finished size.

To determine your desired finished size:
Measure your head where the headband will lie and subtract 1-2 inches. I subtracted 1″ and the headband fits, but I could have gone a decent bit tighter. In fact at first I worried it was too loose to be used, but I’ve tried it in some workouts and it’s stable enough to forget it’s there. I do, however, have a large head, so 1″ is proportionally not so much; for a child’s head a 1″ subtraction might be just right. This is quite a stretchy pattern so you’re safe to go a bit smaller than you would normally.

To adjust the pattern:
Is there a multiple of your gauge measurement that is in your good finished size range? If so, that same multiple of 6, plus 1, is your starting chain length. For instance, if you were working larger than I did and had a gauge of 2 1/4″, your finished size for the pattern as written would be 24 3/4″ – probably way too big. If your head measurement is 22″, so you want a 20″-21″ headband, use a starting chain of 55: since 9 * 2 1/4″ = 20 1/4″, compute 9*6 + 1 = 55.

Adding or subtracting multiples of 6 chains ought to be possible given how much leeway you have for size; if it seems impossible go up or down a hook size and recalculate your gauge. That keeps you from having to alter the pattern itself. At the end, however, I’ll give adjustments for any multiple of 2 in case you really want them.

chain link headband detail

Using embroidery floss!

If you add embroidery floss like I did you’ll be starting a new length of it every row. There is enough floss in a skein to do both the starting chain and row 2, but there is not enough to do both row 1 or 3 and anything else. So: 3 skeins of embroidery floss. Hold skein 1 together with the yarn for the starting chain. Switch to skein 2 (cutting skein 1) for row 1. Switch back to skein 1 for row 2, and then start skein 3 for row 3. I quite liked the effect.

More modifications!

If you alter by a non-multiple-of-6 number of chains, the ends will no longer match up pattern-wise, but it can be done. You do have to have a starting chain that is (even number) + 1. Take that even number and divide by 6. What is the remainder?

0: Follow pattern as written.

2: Start row 1 with two increases; you will also end with two increases. Row 2 will begin as written and end with chain 2, skip 1 instead of 4, 3. Row 3 will begin and end with two decreases.

4: Start row 2 as written but end with 2 decreases. Row 2 will start with chain 4, skip 3 instead of 2, 1 and end as written. Row 3 will begin and end with two increases.