This is the 133rd anniversary of the opening of the Savoy Theatre in Westminster, London, which was the first public building in the world to be lit entirely with electricity. In honor of that I have old and new lightbulb patterns for you.

three light bulbs in crochet

Lightbulbs Aplenty Pattern

In the early days of this blog I designed a compact fluorescent lightbulb and stitched an incandescent bulb to go along with it. In honor of today I thought I’d write a pattern for the incandescent bulb, clean up the CFL pattern if possible, and add an LED bulb pattern to the mix!

LED lightbulb

The CFL changes have been made to the original blog post, and for the LED pattern you’ll have to get the Name-Your-Price pattern in the store (which includes all three bulbs). The incandescent pattern is below.

Incandescent Light Bulb

incandescent lightbulb Gauge is not terribly important, but since I use an E/4 hook (3.5mm) on the CFL, I used it on the incandescent as well. You’ll need worsted weight yarn in two colors, stuffing, and (optionally) something to weight the bottom with (I have used tangled necklace chains, beads, pebbles, and coins). My crochet abbreviations and conventions are on the crochet reference page, and any stitch instruction you might want is linked to from the pattern page.

In bulb color:
1. Form magic ring, ch 1, and sc 6.
2. 2sc around (12).
3. *Sc, 2sc* around (18).
4. *2sc, sc 2* around (24).
5. Sc 2, *2sc, sc 3* five times, 2sc, sc (30).
6-8. Sc around (30 sc; 3 rnds).
9. *Dec, sc 5* four times, sc 2 (26).
10. Sc 2, *dec, sc 4* four times (22).
11. *Dec, sc 3* four times, sc 2 (18).
12-13. Sc around (18 sc, 2 rnds).
14. *Dec, sc 4* around (15).
15-17. Sc around (15 sc; 3 rnds).
18. *Dec, sc 3* around (12). Stuff bulb.

Cut yarn and needle join in second stitch from end; FO bulb color.

In base color: tie slip knot and place on hook. Insert into any stitch of rnd 18 and attach with slip stitch.
19. Starting in next st and ended in same st as sl st, sc around (12).
20-23. Sc around (12 sc; 4 rnds). Stuff, finishing with bottom weight if using.
24. *Dec* around (6). FO.

Dish glove keeper

My husband wears gloves when he washes dishes, and we needed a place to put them in between. Long ago I crocheted him a sort of strap, a loop that hangs from the oven door handle, and he put the gloves through the loop for holding. However, that didn’t work so well (though we kept it for probably close to two years). The gloves would regularly fall out and the strap didn’t contain their wet grossness, so I got an unpleasant fwap in the leg numerous times.

I had in my stash some pieces of a dollar store mesh laundry bag that I bought eight years ago for aeration in a gym bag (I don’t think I ever showed it to you, since it was before the blog; see the bottom of this post for photos). Finally I made a new holder with it.

rubber glove holder rubber glove holder

I laboriously zigzagged the piece into a tube (it kept getting sucked into the machine) and then folded it so the seam was center back. Bias tape (extra wide double fold, my favorite kind) across the bottom and around the top, and then in a hanging loop. Simple and quick.

Finally, as promised, a few pictures of the gym bag. Click to embiggen (as always) and un-crop.

bottom of gym bag gym bag, hanging view into open gym bag

Business card display sleeve

I’ve mentioned my involvement with a blog about the local fibercrafting scene several times now. Funnily enough, I’ve had more use for business cards for this hobby than I’ve ever had for a job. When I designed my business card it occurred to me that we could make a version that was not specific to an individual and use them to advertise the blog.

The idea of putting small stacks of business cards out naked didn’t seem so good. They aren’t really designed like advertising materials would be, so they need an introduction. What else than to make some kind of holder for them using fiber?

Here they are: small sewn pockets that the cards stick out of, with ironed-on intro text and a ribbon so they can be hung on bulletin boards as well as laid on tables.

business card display sleeves

And here’s how to make them. Each sleeve requires four 3.25″ x 3.75″ pieces of fabric. I cut my ribbon, which was 1/8″ wide, to a bit over 4″ (I wanted to use tiny rick-rack, but didn’t have any on hand). If you’d like the sleeves to come all the way up to the top of the card, increase your fabric to 3.25″ x 4.25″.

I printed the advertising text onto fabric designed to go through an inkjet printer, colored a piece of paper with fabric crayons and ironed that onto the fabric as well, ironed fusible web to the back and finally cut out each square of text with wavy borders.

Pinch a center fold into one short side of one piece of fabric and then pin the ribbon ends on each side of the fold. Make sure your pinheads are the end hanging off the edge. I let the ribbon ends stick out by about 1/4″, so their cut end would be further from the stitching, but that’s probably unnecessary. Pin pairs of fabric rectangles right sides together (one pin in each corner should be plenty). Starting on a short end that does not contain a ribbon, stitch at 1/4″ a bit near the end, all the way around the other three sides, and another bit near the opposite end of the starting short side. Back stitch at each end and also across the ribbon where applicable. Trim the corners.

pinned business card sleeves stitching on business card sleeves

Press the open end’s raw edge up at the stitching line to give yourself a clean edge to sew shut. Turn each pair of rectangles right side out and use something pointed but not sharp to push the corners out. I used a pointy decorative chopstick. Be gentle because the clipped fabric will let you push right through the corner if you’re not careful (that happened to the unturned one below when I turned it; I had to make a new one). Press the edges nice and crisp. Avoid pressing the ribbon further out than, say, 1/4″ from the edge of the fabric, so it doesn’t get any creases.

business card sleeves pressed and turned finished business card sleeves

At this point, if you wish, you can topstitch all the way around each piece separately. This will stabilize the top edge a bit. This is also the point at which you should iron your text on to the front if you are using it. Stack the two on top of each other with the openings on the same end and stitch along the two long edges and the short edge with the openings, close to the edge of the fabric (I was lazy and did a probably-generous 1/8″, but you could definitely get closer).

Now we just have to post them!