Archive for the ‘showcase’ Category

Maneki neko

While trying to think of crochet patterns I would like, I looked at my little ceramic lucky cat, bought in San Francisco’s Chinatown many moons ago. Locale of purchase notwithstanding, the maneki neko (beckoning cat) is a Japanese sculpture to bring luck, customers, and/or money to the owner – the raised paw is beckoning good fortune. The coin is labeled “ten million ryō”, which is something like ten billion US dollars.

I started the design process before really looking for existing patterns. I found a few, but only one at the level of detail I wanted, and it was not the shape I was looking for, so I persisted. Three heads, four raised arms, five legs, two lowered arms, and three bodies later, I present to you the pattern.

front view

Good Luck Cat (beckoning cat, maneki neko)
Use worsted weight yarn and an E or F hook, in white except for the collar, which is red. You also need:
* some stuffing
* a small gold bell for the collar
* yellow, gold, or gold-painted felt for the coin
* a black paint pen for the coin and optionally for the facial features (otherwise, black embroidery floss for the features)
* small amounts of red, black, and orange or tan felt, or the same colors in fabric paint (I used Tulip Soft fabric paint in gold metallic (on white felt for the coin), red velvet, ebony matte, and golden tan matte, and a DecoFabric paint pen in black)

Head:
1. sc 6 in magic ring
2. *3sc, sc, sc* 2x (10)
3. *2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, sc* 2x (14)
4. *sc, sc, 2sc, sc, sc, 2sc, 2sc* 2x (20)
5. sc around (20)
Top center is between sts 9 and 10 of rnd 5. Embroider face here (if embroidering).
6. sc, dec, sc, *dec* 5x, *sc, dec* 2x (12)
7. dec around (6x); FO (6)

Alternative (simplified head):
1. sc 6 in magic ring
2. *2sc, sc, 2sc* 2x (10)
3. *2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, sc* 2x (14)
4. *2sc, sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc* 2x (20)
5. sc around (20)
embroider face, if applicable
6. *sc, dec, dec* 4x (12)
7. dec around, FO (6)

Ears (make 2):
ch 3; sc dec (the second and third ch from hk; not inv dec); ch 1; FO

Body:
1. sc 6 in magic ring
2. 2sc around (12)
3. *2sc, sc, sc* 4x (16)
4-6. sc around (16)
7. *dec, sc, sc* 4x (12)
8-9. sc around (12)
stuff
10. dec around; FO (6)

Raised foreleg:
1. sc 5 in magic ring (5)
2-4. sc around (3 rnds, 5 sc)
Now proceed flat, turning after each row.
5-9. sc 2, ch 1 (omit ch in row 9), FO
Fold flap over opening of tube and then fold under so last row meets free edge of tube. Stitch flap to itself and to tube.

Lowered foreleg:
Worked in rows. Ch 6.
1. 2sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc across (6)
2. ch 1, *sc, 2sc* across (9)
3. ch 1, sc across (9)
4. ch 1, dec, dec, sc, dec, dec, FO (5)
Sew row 1 and 4 together to make a tube; slipknot end is paw.

Rear legs (make 2):
These start with a magic ring but proceed in rows, not rounds.
1. sc 3 in magic ring (3)
2. ch 1, 2sc across (6)
3. ch 1, sc, dec, dec, sc (4)
4. ch 1, sc, dec, sc, ch 3 (3 + ch)
5. starting in 2nd ch from hk, sc across (5)
6. ch 1, sc across (5)
7. [no ch] sl st in 2nd st from hk, sc across (3 + sl st)
8. [no ch] sc 2, FO
Fold bottom of leg so row 8 matches row 3 (fold line between rows 5 and 6) and sew. Make sure to fold one leg in each direction. Tighten the initial magic ring and puff the row 1-3 portion of leg out toward the smooth row 1-5 side (the outside).

pieces parts

Collar:
ch 14; optionally, sl st across.
or, in embroidery floss with 1.3mm steel hook: ch 17, sc across.
or, cut a narrow strip of red felt, 1/4″ by 2 1/4″.

front view, no coin top view, no coin

Assembly:
Following the picture, sew the forelegs and rear legs to the body. Paint the inside of the ears red, draw on the facial features, and paint the tan part of the calico spots. Once the tan part is dry, paint the black part of the spots. Alternatively, cut out small triangles of red felt, small ovals of orange/tan felt, and even smaller ovals of black felt and glue or stitch on. Paint some felt gold if necessary, and when that is dry draw on the “ten million ryō” characters. Sew the ears to the head, the head to the body, and the raised paw to the side of the head. Cut out the coin (if you are picky, paint the new edge and let dry) and sew or glue it to the lowered paw to hold it in place. Thread the collar between the raised leg and the neck and sew it around the neck, sewing the bell onto the overlapped edge and placing it center front.

left view right view

 

Grumpasaurus trogdoriensis

My sister is suffering continued ankle problems from a misstep on Easter Sunday, and it’s making her grumpy. Just the excuse I needed to create a crochet Grumpasaurus.

snoopy vulture pose the grumpasaurus in shadow

He is made of mildly scratchy acrylic, because Grumpasauruses are not cuddly. I was inspired by Kat’s knit Grumpasaurus, but mine looks very little like hers and is probably overcomplicated. I sewed the limbs on before closing up the bottom, but after stuffing the shape changed a bit and his legs are not even close to symmetrically placed.

side view

Should you want to take a Grumpasaurus home with you, here is the pattern. See the crochet reference page for abbreviations and pattern conventions. For this I used invisible decrease.

Grumpasarus Body:

1. sc 6 in magic ring
2. 2sc around (12)
3. *2sc, sc* around (18)
4. *2sc, sc, sc* around (24)
5. *2sc, sc 5* 4x (28)
6. 2sc, sc, sc, 2sc, sc 11, 2sc, 2sc, sc 11 (32)
7. sc 18, 2sc, 2sc, sc 12 (34)
8. sc 19, 2sc, 2sc, sc 13 (36)
9. sc 21, 3sc, sc 14 (38)
10. sc 3, 2sc, 2sc, sc 17, 2sc, 2sc, sc 14 (42)
11. sc 3, 2sc, sc, sc, 2sc, sc 18, 2sc, 2sc, sc 15 (46)
12. sc 5, 2sc, 2sc, sc 21, 2sc, 2sc, sc 16 (50)
13. sc 31, 2sc, 2sc, sc 17 (52)
14. sc 6, dec, sc, dec, sc 21, 2sc, 2sc, sc 18 (52)
15. sc 6, dec, dec, sc 21, 2sc, 2sc, sc 19 (52)
16. sc 4, dec, sc, dec, sc 21, 2sc, 2sc, sc 20 (52)
17. dec, dec, sc, sc, dec, dec, sc 40, dec (47)
18. dec, sc, sc, dec, sc 18, 2sc, 2sc, sc 19 (46)
19. sc around (46)

Somewhere around now, embroider the face.

20. 2sc, sc, 2sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 19, 2sc, 2sc, sc 19 (52)
21. sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 43 (56)
22. sc 3, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 12, dec, dec, sc 7, 2sc, 2sc, sc 7, dec, dec, sc 9 (58)
23. sc around (58)
24. sc 28, dec, dec, sc 6, 3sc, 3sc, sc 6, dec, dec, sc 8 (58)
25. sc 38, 3sc, 3sc, sc 18 (62)
26. sc 25, dec, dec, sc 12, ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hk and down ch (3 sl st), sc into next st of prev rnd, sc 11, dec, dec, sc 5 (58 + ch + sl st)
27. sc 39, sc 3 into rem lps of ch, 2sc in turning ch (tip of tail), sc 3 in sl sts, sc 19 (66)
28. sc 9, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 8, dec, sc, dec, sc 16, 3sc, sc 16, dec, sc, dec, sc (67)
29. sc 45, 2sc, sc 21 (68)
30. sc 46, ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hk and down ch (3 sl st), sc into next st of prev rnd, sc 21 (68 + ch + sl st)
31. sc 46, sc 3 into rem lps of ch, 2sc in turning ch (tip of tail), sc 3 in sl sts, sc 22 (76)
32. sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 27, 2sc, sc 25 (74)
33. sc 6, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 30, ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hk and down ch (3 sl st), sc into next st of prev rnd, sc 25 (71 + ch + sl st)
34. sc 5, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 28, sc 3 into rem lps of ch, 2sc in turning ch (tip of tail), sc 3 in sl sts, sc 26 (76)
35. sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 31, 2sc, 2sc, sc 28 (76)
36. sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 30, 3sc, sc 30 (75)

From here you no longer work in rounds; you are making the bottom flap of the body. Odd rows proceed head to tail and even rows tail to head. You may still use inv dec because the only row that uses it faces the right way. Unless otherwise directed, do not use a turning chain, and make your first sc or sl st into the second stitch from the hook. Turn after every row.

37. sc 2, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 29, sl st (40)
38. sl st, sc 33 (33)
39. ch 1, 2sc in 1st st, sc 29, sl st (31)
40. sl st, sc 30 (30)
41. sc 26, sl st (26)
42. sl st, sc 25 (25)
43. ch 1, sc 22 starting in first st, sl st (22)
44. sl st, sc 20, sl st (20)
45. sl st, sc 16, sl st (16)
46. sl st, sc 14, sl st (14)
47. sl st, sc 10, sl st (10)

FO, leaving a long tail. Stuff firmly and sew the flap to the free stitches of round 36.

Grumpasarus Arms (make 2):

1. sc 6 in magic ring
2. *2sc, sc, sc* 2x (8)
3-4. sc around
5. sc, hdc, hdc, sc 5
6. hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc 4
7. sc, hdc, hdc, sc 5
8-10. sc around (3 rows)
11 (partial round). sc 5, sl st.
FO, leaving a long tail to sew with.

Stuff with a doubled length of pipe cleaner, bent in the middle, to assist with the elbow bend. Sew onto the Grumpasaurus so he is fists-on-hips.

Grumpasarus Legs (make 2):

1. sc 6 in magic ring
2. 2sc around (12)
3-6. sc around (4 rows)
sl st and FO, leaving a tail to sew with.

Stuff and sew onto the Grumpasaurus on the bottom of each side, forward of the center point.

 

Fibeenacci stained glass

Did you know the members of each successively earlier generation of a bee’s family tree are counted by the Fibonacci numbers? Starting with a drone or worker, one bee, there is one parent, the queen. The queen has two parents, a queen and a drone, and between them they have three parents, two queens and a drone. Among those three bees they have five parents, three queens and two drones. And it goes on: 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, …

I learned this from a lovely page on the Fibonacci numbers generally, that I found years ago while looking for teaching resources, and it came to mind when quilting friend of mine said she would love to make a Fibonacci quilt, but didn’t have a pattern.

My first design test is a stained glass quilt square. In stained glass quilting, the fabric is bordered by black or dark gray material (usually bias tape) to look like panes of stained glass. My square is 8″x8″ plus a 1/4″ allowance. Except for one corner, all of my “leading” was in straight lines, so I was able to substitute black ribbon for the bias tape I didn’t have. I attached everything with fusible web: Wonder Under for the contrast fabrics and Stitch Witchery, cut into thirds, for the ribbon. Gigantic (A Tale of Two Johns) kept me company.

Fibonacci bee family tree stained glass quilt square

I started at the top, and was able to hide all cut ribbon ends under other ribbon without any folding except for that lower right corner out in space. That took a fair amount of manipulating and some extra Stitch Witchery, and made me grateful for my retractable tweezer fingers.

My other ideas are more traditional quilt formats, and hence less intriguing to try out, but will follow in later installments.

 

Bonus Post: Iron Craft Challenge #23

I finally had time to do the Iron Craft challenge again, which this week was called You Are Here: make something with a map or make something that looks like or is inspired by a map.

In my stash were two world maps sent by the charity Doctors Without Borders, and a piece of scrapbook paper I’m pretty sure I didn’t buy that was a piece of a road map, but I couldn’t think of what to do with them. While doing something else at the sewing machine I looked over at the scrapbook paper and thought about stitching the lines onto fabric, but that with all the red roads it risked looking like a bloodshot eye. Then I thought topographical maps would translate really well to embroidery, but tried in vain to find a good topographical map relevant to my life (I am from the flat lands, and also there are a great many websites that promise free topographical maps and provide nothing of the sort). Somewhere along the line the idea of a topographical map of something non-topographical popped into my mind, and after a little more research and work I present to you Landscape of Love:

topographical embroidery

If I did it right, it is a topographical map of a larger-than-life pair of lips (and surroundings). The fabric is cotton calico and the floss is DMC satin, which is a terrible thing to work with – even if you spend time pumicing your fingertips and filing your nails between each session, it catches on the needle itself. I haven’t decided what to do with it yet, though it would make a good boudoir pillow. Although actually, I’m not so impressed by my stitching. I am very proud of the pattern, though, and in case you like it too, I actually made the effort to put it in sharable form, suitable for size changes.

 

Excellent ideas

Before I even began crocheting, I trolled Etsy for amigurumi patterns. My sister loves Peeps, so I was delighted to find Chiwaluv’s neon chickens pattern. Her chicks have exactly the right blobbiness to be Peeps.

Kate’s current Peeps, all official plushies, are named Peep, Megapeep, Gigapeep, and Terapeep, and she mentioned she was hoping for a Picopeep. I thought I could make her at least a Micropeep out of embroidery floss. Then I realized crocheting sewing thread with a 10 hook (1.3 mm) would be terrific for a Picopeep. I have a couple dozen tiny spools of thread, bought for no good reason in a large bag at the dollar store, and their odd colors included a few plausible Peep hues.

With my bionic vision and retractable tweezer fingers, I completed Picopeep in a mere five hours, a trivial 500% increase over the length of construction of Micropeep. Let’s see the results:

Picopeep on a quarter
Roses say “I love you.” Sewing-thread crochet peeps say “I love you more than eyesight.”

Peeps in rugged terrain
It is a little-known fact that Peeps’ native terrain is rugged, and in fact they are semi-arboreal.

In seriousness, one difficulty is that, like floss, thread is inelastic. This makes, in particular, the first stitch of the second round very tight. It is also difficult to see the stitches – strong light makes a world of difference! The thread twisted up as I went, though I might have been able to fix that by unrolling it from the spool in advance. I found I would make unintentional increases because the new stitch takes so little room on the previous round’s stitch that it was hard to tell last-used from first-unused. I am curious to know whether a larger hook would be easier; I think the hook I use for embroidery floss is proportionally larger.

Peeps and coins

To note: Peeps are a registered trademark of Just Born, Inc.

 

Embroidery ambitions

I love crazy quilts. Although patchwork quilts can be quite beautiful, I seem to lack the “precision” gene needed for equal angles and clean lines, and I suspect I would find it aggravating. However, crazy quilts are on the table.

Many of the lovely historical quilts have themes, such as fans or flowers. I once entertained the notion of a quilt about my history: schools, hobbies, places I’ve lived. That idea never got off the ground, however, and the project that did is the Children’s Book Quilt.

I have a couple of shelves’ worth of children’s books despite having no children, and a few favorite illustrators – Shel Silverstein, Maurice Sendak, Tove Jansson. The children’s book quilt will have embroidered versions of illustrations from specific books, as well as applique images and motifs, and possibly even some painted images (for Leo Lionni’s books, in particular). I will give a complete rundown of the ideas I have next time I finish an embroidery piece, but for now I want to share the two I’ve done so far and talk about the process.

I use tracing paper to copy the images out of the book with a pencil, darken the main lines, and then trace them again onto wash-away embroidery stabilizing paper. Then I cut them out and pin them to fabric, stitching on the lines. I use my beloved DMC color card (I am so glad I got one before they switched from actual floss samples to photos – the sheen is different; I can’t imagine it’s as accurate) to pick floss colors if appropriate. All the embroidery is just freehand straight stitch or backstitch; when I finally put the individual pieces together I’ll use fancier stitches for edges.

The more recent is Shel Silverstein’s bearded man, from Where the Sidewalk Ends:

Shel Silverstein's bearded man in embroidery

I realized after the fact that I fig-leafed him a bit, covering his bare behind with beard, but I am still thrilled at how well he came out – especially his feet. In the tightly-stitched areas, however, the wash-away paper is not living up to his name. It withstood rinsing in water, soaking in white vinegar, rinsing in water again, and two trips through the washing machine pinned flat in a mesh bag. Ideas are welcome.

Less recent is the Dodecahedron from Norton Juster’s The Phantom Tollbooth, illustrated by Jules Feiffer.

Phantom Tollbooth's dodecahedron in embroidery

His stitching is not as good as the bearded man (possibly I used too many strands; I can’t remember), but it will do. He had the same problem with the wash-away paper, especially in his eyes. However, the fabric, though it’s hard to tell, is white with pastel circles stitched into it, so I just re-stitched the pupils that were hidden by paper. I only noticed as I was re-stitching the eyes that his right arm is perfectly aligned with the underlying circle.

I’ve been trying to stick to books I actually had as a child. I have We Were Tired of Living In a House (the beautiful illustrations by Doris Burn, not the lame and generic new ones) in progress and something from Finn Family Moomintroll (Tove Jansson) set up but unstitched. I am dissatisfied with the fabric for the latter, though, and would probably prefer a different image, so I may break my rule and use an image from a more recently-acquired Moomin book. My first multicolor embroidery will probably be Bananas Gorilla from the Richard Scarry books, because he’s the raddest. I am a slow embroiderer, but hope to complete this quilt before I am of retirement age!

Note: the copyrights to the illustrations in Where the Sidewalk Ends and The Phantom Tollbooth are held by Evil Eye Music, Inc., and Jules Feiffer, respectively.

 

Hairy Green Monster

I am a member of the Amigurumi Army on Ravelry, and every month brings an amigurumi mission. February’s mission was dragons and serpents, and my effort is at the top of the picture of my embroidery floss animals. March’s mission was “green means go!”: create something, anything, green. I decided to create a green monster, using the brush crochet technique. I had recently acquired a dog slicker brush and read it works best on mohair and wool, so I got some Red Heart Stitch Nation Full o’ Sheep in “thyme”, picked out my E hook, thought about overall shape, and started stitching!

Stumpy the crocheted green monster

He turned out more complicated than I expected, so a pattern pdf will follow later, once I have time to put it together. Handwritten, the pattern is three and a half pages long! Not because it’s overly difficult; at least some of the length is due to separate left and right arm patterns, so they will be mirror images.

Rock Star Monster
Rock star

 

Embroidery floss crochet

I began crocheting in November of 2010, during a bout of insomnia, and made piles of hearts and goldfish. However, reading about crochet done with plarn (“yarn” made from plastic bags), old cassette and video tape, and strips of t-shirts made me think yarn was boring. Ribbon was promising, but I had no projects I wanted to make with it. Futuregirl wrote about crocheting with ordinary sewing thread, and I began roaming around my sewing room. Ultimately, I picked up my box of off-brand embroidery floss and the largest of my steel hooks (1/2.75mm).

I began ambitiously with Roman Sock’s pocket elephant. Legs of three obviously different diameters and Neanderthal brow ridges caused by upside-down safety eye backings give him character. Since then I have rarely been without an embroidery floss work in progress. Recently I got all my little guys together for a family photo. Click for a larger version; patterns linked below.

embroidery floss amigurumi

Top to bottom, left to right:
mighty & ferocious dragon, penguin ornament (feet freehanded by me), tiny whale, pocket elephant, Lion Brand fortune cookie (pink; registration required), Alicia Kachmar fortune cookie (beige), fishhead (freehanded by me), mini turtle, Falwyn’s little fox.

I had to increase the size of the turtle body to match the shell, though I had no such mismatch in yarn. Contradictorily, my fox is a fat little sausage. Stitch proportion tests will be made and reported on.